One of my favorite things about this part of the Camino is how quickly the environments change. We started the morning--finally good weather!--by climbing out of the beautifully maintained town of Larrasoana through fields and woods, past young wheat stalks blowing in wave-like motions, past graffiti covered stone buildings in various stages of dilapidation, along a highway with cars zipping by at 70 mph, up some steep inclines, and, six miles later, descending into the town of Arre, essentially a suburb of Pamplona.

We stopped in Arre for water and a quick snack. Church bells were ringing while a crowd gathered in a large plaza to celebrate a bunch of girls having First Communion. The girls were excited, happy, and glowing in their beautiful dresses while their families were hugging and exchanging best wishes and celebrating.

From there the walk had a more urban feel. Past dwellings, shops, and parks, with graceful rows of pollarded trees lining the main road leading through town, and then finally to the edge of Pamplona. There we crossed the Puenta Magdelena, a 12th century bridge used by millions of pilgrims over the years, through the two massive city gates, and along the dramatic and imposing stone fortifications that surround the city. Then into the beautiful old city center of Pamplona, where we stopped for lunch at a restaurant where we had dinner the night before going to Roncesvalles. After lunch we continued through the historic part of town, then out alongside several graceful parks, past apartment buildings and businesses, through the University of Navarra campus, and to the edge of the city.

We were about 3K from Cizur Menor when I realized I had mistakenly made reservations in Cizur Mayor, the adjacent town. Not what we wanted and I felt like a bonehead. We were at a loss but we stopped into a bar and were directed to the hotel. Though it seemed like it took forever luckily it was only about a mile and a half out of our way. And now we're finally here, and it's nice.

We walked altogether around 13 or 14 miles, and though the weather was near perfect--low 60s, brilliant sun, cool breeze, and low humidity--I'm pretty exhausted. But exhilarated too. And looking forward to the wine or beer that awaits downstairs.