We walked nine miles today but it was much more challenging than we had anticipated, mostly due to the recent frequent and heavy rains. We set out from our pension at 10 AM after a simple breakfast of coffee and bread and butter, and once again it was chilly and misty. Aside from a few light showers the rest of the day was mostly damp but dry, with occasion cool winds. I figure next month, when the sun should be hot and unrelenting, I'll be craving such days.

The first six miles took us through lush forest, with occasional views and fleeting glimpses of the surrounding mountains and fields. Heading out of Viscarret the first mile or so was a steep rise, which got our blood pumping and we quickly shed our fleeces. But the difficult parts were the downhills. The path, uneven to start with, was essentially a sheet of slick mud and mud-covered stones, dangerously slippery. Sometimes we literally proceeded six inches at a time. It was exhausting and we had visions of tumbling bodies and backpacks.

In early afternoon we finally arrived at Zubiri, an industrial town, and crossed the triple-arched ancient stone bridge, the Puente de la Rabia, into the main square. According to our guidebook the name comes from an ancient legend that claimed that any animal led three times around the central arch of the bridge would be cured of rabies. Just over the bridge we found a bustling bar, where we happily shed our packs and had our midday meal. Lunch was simple, and after being hungry for hours, particularly delicious, a sandwich of ham and cheese between some sort of potato and onion pancake, water, coffee, and a shared apple torte.

Exiting Zubiri we had a long steady climb past a huge concrete factory and then through gentle farmlands with exquisite views of the surrounding hills, replete with flocks of sheep, grazing horses, and picturesque crumbling stone structures. We passed through a couple of tiny villages and finally made it to our pension in Larrasoana, again a room in a private home, which took us a while to find even though the town is so small. It took us nearly six hours to walk the nine miles, and now we're lying prone. Dinner will be ready at seven.