October 24, 2016

Well it seems we saved the best for last. A wonderful day. In the morning we took a lovely walk in the Castello district, roamed the streets, got lost and disoriented as seems to be the norm here, and visited churches. Totally different impression from our experience in the San Marco area. The streets were quiet, relatively empty, serene, devoid of the craziness of the crowds. We could walk uninterrupted, enjoy the light and the air and the edifices and canals in a leisurely way, and just revel in being where we were. We visited the massive Basilica di San Giovanni e Paolo with its soaring spaces and what seemed to be precariously tilting columns and the 15th century Church of San Zaccaria with floor to ceiling paintings including a transcendent altarpiece by Giovanni Bellini. Both churches were profound in their own way, entirely different in character, both beautiful.

But that was just the hors d'oeuvre. Even though I thought I knew what to expect at the Basilica di San Marco, was familiar with the structure and the mosaics through books I've bought and sold and own, I was totally blown away. There have been a few places I've visited in my life that have just seemed imbued with a magic beyond words or description, an unexpected jolt of power that hints at something deeper and larger, and this is one of them. Visually it was stunning, with rich mosaics covering the walls and ceilings, spectacular Byzantine-style icons at the altar, and complex marble inlaid floors. The light was dim but the place seemed to be glowing, with the gold mosaic tiles glittering in the low light, shifting as we moved through the space. But there was something greater than the sum of its parts, an indescribable energy or presence of place.