How quickly the environments change in this stretch of the Camino. We started the morning--finally good weather!--by climbing out of the carefully maintained town of Larrasoana through fields and woods, past young wheat stalks blowing in wave-like motions, past graffiti-covered stone buildings in various stages of dilapidation, along a highway with cars zipping by at 70 mph, up some steep inclines, and, six miles later, we descended into the town of Arre, a suburb of Pamplona.

Then the walk became more urban. Past dwellings, shops, and parks, with graceful rows of pollarded trees lining the Sunday-quiet main road leading through Arre. At one point we passed a church square crowded with families celebrating a bunch of girls' First Communions. As we entered Pamplona we crossed the Puenta Magdelena, a 12th century stone bridge used by millions of pilgrims over the years, passed through the two massive city gates, and walked astride the dramatic stone fortifications that surround the city. In the historic center we stopped for lunch at a restaurant where we had had dinner on the eve of leaving for Roncesvalles and afterwards proceeded through and alongside several graceful and shaded parks, past modern apartment blocks and businesses, through the University of Navarra campus, and to the outskirts of the city.

We were very tired and still about 3K from our destination, Cizur Menor, when I realized I had mistakenly made reservations in Zizur Maior, the adjacent town. By the time we reached Cizur Menor Terry and I were both ready to take a taxi. We were at a loss so we stopped into a couple of bars to ask for help and after much confusion we were told no taxis were available but we were directed to the hotel. It was only about 2K out of our way, mostly past a long series of modern apartment buildings, but seemed much longer. Now we’re finally here and the hotel is clean, modern and comfortable. And a long hot shower has turned out to be great therapy for both mind and body.

We walked altogether around 13 or 14 miles, and despite the fact that the weather was near perfect--low 60s, brilliant sun, cool breeze, and low humidity--I'm exhausted. But exhilarated too. I'm looking forward to the wine or beer that awaits downstairs.